EUROVISION KIEV
BRITISH AIRWAYS HIGH-LIFE MAGAZINE, MAY 2005
WHERE TO STAYKiev's finest hotel is the aptly-named Premier Palace (5-7 Shevchenka; +380 44 244 1200; www.premier-palace.com ) featuring bellhops in top hats and eight floors of elegant rooms right in the city centre. The location is hard to beat, but the larger and less expensive Hotel Rus (Hospitalna 4; +380 44 294 3020; www.hotelrus.kiev.ua ) is not too far away and promises a comfy stay in spite of its dour Soviet exterior A handful of boutique hotels are hidden back in the romantic quarter of Podil, including the quietly chic Vozdvyzhensky (60 Vozdvyzhenska; +380 44 531 9900; www.vozdvyzhensky.com ) and the more contemporary Domus (19 Yaroslavska; +380 44 490 9008; www.domus-hotel.kiev.ua ).
WHAT NOT TO MISS
A short walk to the top of Kiev's impressive high street Khreschatyk brings you to the Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square), where Ruslana sang to the grooving mass of protestors last November. Ukraine's ancient past lives on in the underground labyrinth of the Caves Monastery (21 Ivana Mazepa), where chanting monks guide you with dripping candles through dark tombs. Above ground, St. Vladimir's Cathedral (20 Shevchenka; +380 44 235 0362) is well worth a visit for its incredible murals and the traditional Orthodox music sung at every service. Be sure to take in one of the outstanding performances at Kiev's historic National Opera and Ballet (Volodymyrska 50; +380 44 224 7165) as well. For shopping, walk down the artsy corridor of Andriyivsky Uzviz with its souvenir galleries and lively street performances, then sample caviar and a stiff Ukrainian vodka at the Bessarabsky Market .
WHERE TO EAT
For upscale Ukrainian fare, try Lypsky Osobnyak (15 Lypska; +380 44 254 0090), where hearty peasant staples are transformed into the nouvelle cuisine of a new Ukraine. Myslyvets (147/5 Saksahanskovo; +380 44 236 3735) offers a good taste of Ruslana's world with Carpathian-style wild game amid rustic mountain décor, or sample an authentic tribute to Ukraine's Cossack past at Kozak Mamai (4 Prorizna; +380 44 228 4273).
WHERE TO PLAY
Since the Orange Revolution, Kiev's most dazzling dance floor is Opium (1 Saksahanskovo; +380 44 205 53 93; www.opiumdance.com.ua ) where resident DJ's keep a youthful crowd jumping ‘til sunrise. The burgeoning musical set hangs out at Art Club (44 Khreschatyk; +380 44 229 4137), an underground rock hall with thrashing bands and $5 cocktails. If you want something mellow, take in the live jazz and nostalgic blues of Double Bass ( 34 Kostyantynivska; +380 44 467 7018). The campier-than-thou River Palace (Naberezhnoe Shosse/Dnepr Bridge; +380 44 490 6695) has Slavic divas belting out disco tunes on a refurbished Soviet riverboat turned casino, whereas a less covert gay experience can be found at Androgyne (26/2 Garmatna; +380 44 441 4432), the flamboyant discotheque of the Big Boys' Club (26/2 Garmatna; +380 44 435 0613). Kletka (“the Cage”; 3 Kutuzova; +380 573 8848) is your typical gay club complete with Abba soundtrack, and for a lively drink, try one of 111 's one hundred and eleven cocktails (1 Peremohy; +380 44 221 7741). AE